[Elecraft] [KX3] Speaker buzz fix with pictures

[Tim Tucker]

Inspired by the KX3 yahoo group discussion yesterday on the source of the
speaker buzz in the KX3, I decided to try it out. Here are my results with
detailed pictures:

http://www.worldwidedx.com/elecraft-kx3/142103-elecraft-kx3-speaker-buzz-fix.html

Tim
AE6LX

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

There's a way that does not involve any filing or grinding.

I've found that the critical gap is the one at the bottom just below the
speaker where vibration by the speaker can make the edge of the metal move
back and forward, banging against the bottom cover.

That is easily cured by separating the top and bottom (you'll have to unplug
the flex cable and battery connector) and then, holding the top cover in
your hands with the inside facing you, press your thumbs against the edge of
the metal just below the speaker, bending it gently outwards. Repeat and
check the fit with the top cover until you have a comfortable gap and a
straight edge placed across the speaker lines up with the bottom cover on
both sides. On mine, the gap was about 20 mils when the section of the top
cover holding the speaker lined up with the bottom cover.

The actual gap is not important. You'll know it's big enough when the buzz
stops.

If you do that, be gentle with the flex cable, and avoid plugging and
unplugging it any more than is necessary. Those connectors are not designed
for lots of plugging in and unplugging and may become intermittent if
abused.

73, Ron AC7AC

[Andrew Moore]

Another method: Painter's tape (the blue stuff) - a strip along the two
horizontal seams to the left and right of the speaker (as it faces you)
cured the buzz here - and also one strip on the bottom edge under the
speaker.

I applied it over the edges, folded it down on the inside and outside
surfaces.

No bending, no grinding or filing. Only downside is your KX3 looks like
it's about to be painted.

Actually, black vinyl tape would probably do better, and would blend in
better with the case.

Note - this method is done most easily by separating the cover halves, but
as Ron mentioned, be careful with that ribbon connector when you unplug it.

--Andrew, NV1B..



separate the covers (CAREFULLY.. as Ron mentions, that ribbon cable is
fragile).

Post by Ron D'Eau Claire
There's a way that does not involve any filing or grinding.
I've found that the critical gap is the one at the bottom just below the
speaker where vibration by the speaker can make the edge of the metal move
back and forward, banging against the bottom cover.
That is easily cured by separating the top and bottom (you'll have to unplug
the flex cable and battery connector) and then, holding the top cover in
your hands with the inside facing you, press your thumbs against the edge of
the metal just below the speaker, bending it gently outwards. Repeat and
check the fit with the top cover until you have a comfortable gap and a
straight edge placed across the speaker lines up with the bottom cover on
both sides. On mine, the gap was about 20 mils when the section of the top
cover holding the speaker lined up with the bottom cover.

[Tim Tucker]

I actually tried tape at first and wasn't as happy with the results.
Removing a bit of the case material seems to solve the root of the problem
rather than just deal with the effects.

Tim

Post by Andrew Moore
Another method: Painter's tape (the blue stuff) - a strip along the two
horizontal seams to the left and right of the speaker (as it faces you)
cured the buzz here - and also one strip on the bottom edge under the
speaker.
I applied it over the edges, folded it down on the inside and outside
surfaces.
No bending, no grinding or filing. Only downside is your KX3 looks like
it's about to be painted.
Actually, black vinyl tape would probably do better, and would blend in
better with the case.
Note - this method is done most easily by separating the cover halves, but
as Ron mentioned, be careful with that ribbon connector when you unplug it.
--Andrew, NV1B..
separate the covers (CAREFULLY.. as Ron mentions, that ribbon cable is
fragile).

Post by Ron D'Eau Claire
There's a way that does not involve any filing or grinding.
I've found that the critical gap is the one at the bottom just below the
speaker where vibration by the speaker can make the edge of the metal

move

Post by Ron D'Eau Claire
back and forward, banging against the bottom cover.
That is easily cured by separating the top and bottom (you'll have to unplug
the flex cable and battery connector) and then, holding the top cover in
your hands with the inside facing you, press your thumbs against the edge of
the metal just below the speaker, bending it gently outwards. Repeat and
check the fit with the top cover until you have a comfortable gap and a
straight edge placed across the speaker lines up with the bottom cover on
both sides. On mine, the gap was about 20 mils when the section of the

top

Post by Ron D'Eau Claire
cover holding the speaker lined up with the bottom cover.

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