Discussion:
Remote KPA-100 Kit
(too old to reply)
BPCI at aol.com ()
2005-12-01 23:14:33 UTC
Permalink
I have researched putting my KPA-100 in a seperate enclosure and running my
K-2 in its original mode. However, what seems to me to be a simple project of
extending cables and plugging them in when I need the amplifier is very
complicated according to the reflector. I am not very good at this, but was able
to complete the Elecraft kits due to their excellence.

If some one (hopefully Elecraft) could make up a kit for remoting the
KPA-100, I would be very appreciative, and I would buy it. My bet is that a lot of
others might buy it also. For my purposes, I just need to use the amplifier
without changing the case and be able to go back to using the rig QRP (unplug
the amplifier).

Is my only alternative to order more of that multi-colored cable and other
plugs and connectors from Elecraft and run the whole mess out the back of the
case of both the K-2 and the EC2 I need to buy? Thanks for anyone's help...72,
Ci

Ci Jones, WU7R (K-2/100 #4615, K-1 #933, KX-1 #957)
FISTS #10789
NAQCC #306
ARCI #12163
Bob Nielsen
2005-12-02 00:48:26 UTC
Permalink
Post by BPCI at aol.com ()
I have researched putting my KPA-100 in a seperate enclosure and running my
K-2 in its original mode. However, what seems to me to be a simple project of
extending cables and plugging them in when I need the amplifier is very
complicated according to the reflector. I am not very good at this, but was able
to complete the Elecraft kits due to their excellence.
If some one (hopefully Elecraft) could make up a kit for remoting the
KPA-100, I would be very appreciative, and I would buy it. My bet is that a lot of
others might buy it also. For my purposes, I just need to use the amplifier
without changing the case and be able to go back to using the rig QRP (unplug
the amplifier).
Is my only alternative to order more of that multi-colored cable and other
plugs and connectors from Elecraft and run the whole mess out the back of the
case of both the K-2 and the EC2 I need to buy? Thanks for anyone's help...72,
Ci
There's a much easier--

http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html

You will probably want to add a KIO2 (although there is an
alternative listed on those web pages). A custom cable need to be
constructed, but that beats making extenders for the ribbon cable,
etc. I haven't done this yet (I have all the parts), but many on
this refelector have built theirs this way. When unplugged from the
external KPA100, you have a standard K2 (with the exception of one
larger inductor).

Another way of doing this is shown at <http://home.pacbell.net/
johngreb/k2_100_in_ec2.pdf>.

Good luck!

73, Bob N7XY
Don Wilhelm
2005-12-02 02:12:52 UTC
Permalink
Ci,

Some folks seem to make a mountain out of a molehill IMHO. If you order the
KAT100 that fits into the EC2 enclosure, all the 'hooks' for mounting the
KPA100 in the same enclosure are already on the KAT100 board, it is just a
matter of plugging it in.

All that is required to operate the KPA100 remotely (without the KAT100-2)
is a short piece of coax with BNC connectors and a short special cable with
DE-9 male connectors on each end (pins 1, 5, 6, 7, 8, and 9 connected at
each end). The cable plugs into the AUX I/O jack on both the K2 and the
KPA100 - everything else is optional and can be added at the builders
discretion.

I mounted a BNC connector in the rear lower panel of my EC2 and soldered one
of the large headers (like the AUX RF header) onto the back of it, and I
just plug the input RF coax into it when mounting the KPA100 - even that is
not necessary, one could snake a piece of RG174 coax out the back of the EC2
with a small notch in the rear panel and solder the KPA100 end directly to
the circuit board. There are several workable possibilities, but none need
to be complex.

Of course, the base K2 needs to have the KIO2 installed if you want to do it
this 'easy' way, and the 15 uH miniature inductor on the KIO2 Aux board
should be changed to one that can handle increased current - a small toroid
is usually recommended.

When one also desires to connect a computer to the K2 (or K2 plus KPA100),
you must add a tail going to the computer from the K2 end of the DE9 cable
that connects the K2 and KPA100, but that is nothing more complex than
wiring a similar cable for use with the KAT100 or any of the transverters.
If you do not intend to add the computer connection, the short cable between
the K2 and KPA100 is all that is required.

73,
Don W3FPR
-----Original Message-----
I have researched putting my KPA-100 in a seperate enclosure and
running my
K-2 in its original mode. However, what seems to me to be a
simple project of
extending cables and plugging them in when I need the amplifier is very
complicated according to the reflector. I am not very good at
this, but was able
to complete the Elecraft kits due to their excellence.
If some one (hopefully Elecraft) could make up a kit for remoting the
KPA-100, I would be very appreciative, and I would buy it. My bet
is that a lot of
others might buy it also. For my purposes, I just need to use the
amplifier
without changing the case and be able to go back to using the rig
QRP (unplug
the amplifier).
Is my only alternative to order more of that multi-colored cable
and other
plugs and connectors from Elecraft and run the whole mess out the
back of the
case of both the K-2 and the EC2 I need to buy? Thanks for
anyone's help...72,
Ci
Ci Jones, WU7R (K-2/100 #4615, K-1 #933, KX-1 #957)
FISTS #10789
NAQCC #306
ARCI #12163
Gary G7USC
2010-03-22 09:24:49 UTC
Permalink
Following on from this :)
I have the KPA 2 to build for my K2.
The plan is to have it set up remotely in due course with the KAT 100
(initially the KPA will be in the K2). The ATU and remote enclosure will be
the next step in my evolution of this lovely little radio.
Must think of a name for mine at some point :)
I normally have mine connected to a pc for logging etc. As I couldn't
imagine nowadays not having this faclity and what I have read on the
archives seems to suggest that if you remote it all that you lose this
option.
Is it possible to remote the KPA 100 and KAT (100 watt version) and still
have PC control as well?

73 Gary G7USC
--
View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Remote-KPA-100-Kit-tp384233p4776869.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
Don Wilhelm
2010-03-22 12:25:32 UTC
Permalink
Gary,

You do *not* lose the computer connection when the KPA100/KAT100 are
located in a separate enclosure.
The cable to be constructed is exactly the same as the one shown in the
KAT100 manual. The connector that connects to the K2 (KIO2 option) has
2 cables coming out of it - one goes to the KPA100/KAT100 and the other
cable goes to the computer.

The only thing that is lost is the ability to connect the computer to
the KPA100 connector, one must connect to the computer from the KIO2.

73,
Don W3FPR
Post by Gary G7USC
Following on from this :)
I have the KPA 2 to build for my K2.
The plan is to have it set up remotely in due course with the KAT 100
(initially the KPA will be in the K2). The ATU and remote enclosure will be
the next step in my evolution of this lovely little radio.
Must think of a name for mine at some point :)
I normally have mine connected to a pc for logging etc. As I couldn't
imagine nowadays not having this faclity and what I have read on the
archives seems to suggest that if you remote it all that you lose this
option.
Is it possible to remote the KPA 100 and KAT (100 watt version) and still
have PC control as well?
73 Gary G7USC
Gary G7USC
2010-03-22 20:40:58 UTC
Permalink
Cheers for that Don, thought it might be me misreading/misunderstnding :)
The web page link earler also cleared it up for me as well.
Thank you for the replies every one much appreciated.

This really is a great little rig, as usual also excellant support :)

73 Gary G7USC
--
View this message in context: http://n2.nabble.com/Remote-KPA-100-Kit-tp384233p4780348.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
BPCI at aol.com ()
2005-12-02 03:25:02 UTC
Permalink
Thanks to everyone who responded. I think I've got it now. Having it
explained has greatly simplified it for me, and I really appreciate this reflector.
I need a KIO2 to accomplish the change simply. If somebody has a used one
they would like to sell, I would like to buy one. If I can't find a used one, I
will order one when I order the EC2. Again, thanks to everyone...Ci

Ci Jones, WU7R
FISTS #10789
NAQCC #306
ARCI #12163
nr5a
2005-12-02 04:19:30 UTC
Permalink
Ok, yes, I'm stupid, no I can't follow directions or understand them, I need
them on pre-school level I guess. I had my A ver, K2 brought up to a B
version, just got the K2 back today with all the upgrades. 160m module, KNB
2, and KAT 2 amoung the other stuff.

I'm sitting here, I hit the Menu button. Next I rotate the main tuning knob
to ATU AUTO just like the instructions say.

A fast push on the Menu button again returns the K2 to freq readout as it
should be. 7040

I've got the power output knob set to the 2nd dot turning it clockwise
wattmeter on K2 says 2.5watts.

I tap the ANT 1/2 button and I can see it go from ANT 2 to ANT 1, I assume
its on ANT 1 because no lil down arrows are on ANT 2.

Next I hit the ANT 1/2 button and hold it in a few seconds, I hear the
rattling of relays. I watch the WM-2 wattmeter I always keep inline. The
rattling stops, the cw tone stops, and the SWR is pegged, both in Ref and
Fwr positions. What am I doing wrong???

I have the directions open to page 18 and am following the Basic ATU
Operation (auto mode) step by step, or so I thought, What am I not doing?
I'm trying to tune back on 7040 and only hear static. There is a big
difference between Ant 1 and Ant 2 in noise level. Ant 1 is where the noise
is but no signals coming thru.

Its not my antenna, a hour ago using my FT-817 thru a T-1 tuner I was tuned
up on 40m. I used the K2 thru the T-1 before the conversion, and it worked
great. The antenna is a 22ft vert gnd mounted with 14 radials.

So can anyone see what I'm doing wrong?? And explain it to me so I can
understand it, remember your talking to a very frustrated stupid person.

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
Don Nesbitt
2005-12-02 14:58:16 UTC
Permalink
Hi Jerry -

First: if the WM-2 is between the K2 and the antenna, the results of the
KAT2 matching the K2 to the antenna will NOT show up on the WM-2! Why?
Because the WM-2 would have to be located INSIDE the K2 between the output
of the final transistors and the input to the KAT2 - and - it isn't!

But - when you use the T1, you likely do have the WM-2 between the rig (K2
or Yaesu) and the T1 - so - as the T1 matches to the antenna, the results DO
show up on the MW-2!

Pictorial view follows: (bad but you may get the idea). If indeed the
following lineup is what you have, NO amount of matching accomplished by the
internal KAT2 will result in a change in the reading on the WM-2. If the
antenna presents a high SWR, the WM-2 will show a high SWR even though the
internal KAT2 will have matched to it!

K2 & KAT2 (that is all inside the K2 - now we are going outside the K2) =>
Coax => WM-2 => Antenna

The real question is in the lineup shown above what does the K2 with the
KAT2 show for the resulting SWR?

Now - with the 817 here is what you likely have:

817 => coax => WM-2 => coax => T1 => antenna

Since the WM-2 is now BETWEEN the rig output and matching unit (in this case
the T1) it WILL show the results of the match obtained.

Just another thought on the procedure you described:

Once you switch to the correct ANT, you don't "double" push the button,
(that will switch back to the opposite antenna connection that is probably
not connected to anything!) - you just push it in and hold it for a second
or two.

You may be inadvertently switching to an unused ANT position before you are
holding the button in for the antenna matcher to tune.

Have fun es gud dxing -- Don N4HH


----- Original Message -----
From: "nr5a" <***@rap.midco.net>
To: <***@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 10:17 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT 2
Post by nr5a
Ok, yes, I'm stupid, no I can't follow directions or understand them, I
need them on pre-school level I guess. I had my A ver, K2 brought up to a
B version, just got the K2 back today with all the upgrades. 160m module,
KNB 2, and KAT 2 amoung the other stuff.
I'm sitting here, I hit the Menu button. Next I rotate the main tuning
knob to ATU AUTO just like the instructions say.
A fast push on the Menu button again returns the K2 to freq readout as it
should be. 7040
I've got the power output knob set to the 2nd dot turning it clockwise
wattmeter on K2 says 2.5watts.
I tap the ANT 1/2 button and I can see it go from ANT 2 to ANT 1, I assume
its on ANT 1 because no lil down arrows are on ANT 2.
Next I hit the ANT 1/2 button and hold it in a few seconds, I hear the
rattling of relays. I watch the WM-2 wattmeter I always keep inline. The
rattling stops, the cw tone stops, and the SWR is pegged, both in Ref and
Fwr positions. What am I doing wrong???
I have the directions open to page 18 and am following the Basic ATU
Operation (auto mode) step by step, or so I thought, What am I not doing?
I'm trying to tune back on 7040 and only hear static. There is a big
difference between Ant 1 and Ant 2 in noise level. Ant 1 is where the
noise is but no signals coming thru.
Its not my antenna, a hour ago using my FT-817 thru a T-1 tuner I was
tuned up on 40m. I used the K2 thru the T-1 before the conversion, and it
worked great. The antenna is a 22ft vert gnd mounted with 14 radials.
So can anyone see what I'm doing wrong?? And explain it to me so I can
understand it, remember your talking to a very frustrated stupid person.
Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
nr5a
2005-12-03 05:20:31 UTC
Permalink
Thanks for to those who helped. I'm on some meds that are really nasty, and
have some bad side affects, sometimes they get to me espicially when I get
frustrated like last nite. Warning don't take steroids, my doctor put me on
them because of leg ulcers and they backfired. I'm getting over a near
kidney failure because of them, thats not the point don't know how I got off
on it, aw the good news my legs are healing really fast.

Anyway after I got up today and got in the shack this afternoon, I got to
thinking what I had done. Everyone is right, you should not put a external
wattmeter on a rig like a K2 that has the auto antenna tuner built in, of
course your not going to get correct reading on the ext wattmeter. It hit me
like a brickwall when I realized what I did. Short story, the K2 tuner tunes
the bands I operate just fine with very low SWRs. Actually the swr are quite
close to what the WM-2 reads, some cases lower. This is going to take some
gettting use to for me tho, I've operated for over 5 years with the WM-2 or
a WM-1 inline, just don't seem right hooking nothing but the antenna to the
rig and operating. hi hi I'm having a hard time trusting the wattmeter built
in the K2 but I know its on the money. Hi Hi HI

My problem now is getting the keyer to work but I can figure that one out.

Want to thank the wonderful people on this reflector, I've learned alot from
it which prooves you can teach a old dog new tricks even if he is on drugs,
and believe me I'd rather not be! ! !! ! !

Cheers

Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
----- Original Message -----
From: "nr5a" <***@rap.midco.net>
To: <***@mailman.qth.net>
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2005 8:17 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT 2
Post by nr5a
Ok, yes, I'm stupid, no I can't follow directions or understand them, I
need them on pre-school level I guess. I had my A ver, K2 brought up to a
B version, just got the K2 back today with all the upgrades. 160m module,
KNB 2, and KAT 2 amoung the other stuff.
I'm sitting here, I hit the Menu button. Next I rotate the main tuning
knob to ATU AUTO just like the instructions say.
A fast push on the Menu button again returns the K2 to freq readout as it
should be. 7040
I've got the power output knob set to the 2nd dot turning it clockwise
wattmeter on K2 says 2.5watts.
I tap the ANT 1/2 button and I can see it go from ANT 2 to ANT 1, I assume
its on ANT 1 because no lil down arrows are on ANT 2.
Next I hit the ANT 1/2 button and hold it in a few seconds, I hear the
rattling of relays. I watch the WM-2 wattmeter I always keep inline. The
rattling stops, the cw tone stops, and the SWR is pegged, both in Ref and
Fwr positions. What am I doing wrong???
I have the directions open to page 18 and am following the Basic ATU
Operation (auto mode) step by step, or so I thought, What am I not doing?
I'm trying to tune back on 7040 and only hear static. There is a big
difference between Ant 1 and Ant 2 in noise level. Ant 1 is where the
noise is but no signals coming thru.
Its not my antenna, a hour ago using my FT-817 thru a T-1 tuner I was
tuned up on 40m. I used the K2 thru the T-1 before the conversion, and it
worked great. The antenna is a 22ft vert gnd mounted with 14 radials.
So can anyone see what I'm doing wrong?? And explain it to me so I can
understand it, remember your talking to a very frustrated stupid person.
Jerry - NR5A - South Dakota
_______________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
2005-12-02 04:45:42 UTC
Permalink
Hi,

Take a look a the end of this web page...

http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard/PhotoAlbum29.html

I put a few photos of my K2 and the external KPA100... really easy to
do... ;-)

Good luck !!!


=============================================
/?\/?\/?\/?\/?\/?\ JEAN-FRANCOIS MENARD
V A 2 V Y Z
\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/\_/

FISTS #11896
Elecraft K2 #4130
Elecraft KX1 #999

http://homepage.mac.com/jfmenard
=============================================
Post by BPCI at aol.com ()
Thanks to everyone who responded. I think I've got it now. Having it
explained has greatly simplified it for me, and I really appreciate this reflector.
I need a KIO2 to accomplish the change simply. If somebody has a used one
they would like to sell, I would like to buy one. If I can't find
a used one, I
will order one when I order the EC2. Again, thanks to everyone...Ci
Ci Jones, WU7R
FISTS #10789
NAQCC #306
ARCI #12163
_______________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
You must be a subscriber to post to the list.
http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm
Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Dan Barker
2005-12-02 14:55:44 UTC
Permalink
"So can anyone see what I'm doing wrong"

To connect a WM-2 in circuit with the KAT2, you'd need to open the case and
measure the power between the RF board and the KAT2 board. This is simply
not necessary. Use the power measurement capability of the KAT2.

If the load is very close to 50 ohm resistive, you can hook it up the way
you imply you've got it, and get reasonable measurements.

You say "the SWR is pegged". I don't know what that means. The KAT2 will
show various SWR ratios (not forward and/or reverse power) while in AUTO
mode, so you may be discussing some function/feature of the WM-2.

How does the KAT2 seem to work with the WM-2 out of the circuit?

Yes, ANT1 is indicated by an extinguished ANT2 enunciator.



"And explain it to me so I can understand it"

Power meters, such as the WM-2, expect to see 50 ohm loads. If you have a
different load, the power meter will display wildly different values. A
transmatch, antenna tuner, conjugate match, or whatever you call it will
show 50 ohms on the input (if adjusted correctly) and whatever the feedline
presents on the output. The only way to get a meaningful power measurement
is in the input, 50 ohm, side. Of course, this won't take into account any
inefficiencies in the tuner. To do that, you'd need to analyze the impedance
at the feedline, measure the RMS voltage at that point, and do some
arithmetic WAY over my head<g>. I'd suggest going with "Don't ask, don't
tell" - say what the K2 says.

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456
Continue reading on narkive:
Loading...